Sam's Birthday

Note for the folks at home: A number of national holidays are recognized in Kenya. Christmas is a big one, although in some areas the celebration of the holiday may seem underwhelming to someone from America or Europe. Valentine's Day, on the other hand, is celebrated with surprising vigor, in my experience. The giving of gifts on Valentine's Day seems to dwarf even Christmas' gift-swappery, even in more remote towns. (I was shocked to hear that all of my colleagues were exchanging gifts on February 14th, and they were equally shocked that I had no gifts for anyone.) Kenya also boasts a number of nation-specific holidays, namely Madaraka ("Responsibility") Day on June 1st, marking the day Kenya achieved full self-rule after colonization; and Jamhuri ("Republic") Day on December 12th, commemorating both the day Kenya became independent of the UK (in 1963) and the day Kenya was established as a republic (in 1964). Both are celebrated with parades, festivals, and of course a day off from work. Finally, October 20th is Mashujaa ("Heroes") Day, honoring the individuals that helped build the Republic of Kenya. Formerly called "Kenyatta Day", after Kenya's first president, the holiday's name was permanently changed for the 2010 celebration (a week after my arrival in the country.)

Need To Shave!

Note for the folks at home: Facial hair preferences in Kenya are about as varied as in America, although the mustache is considerably more popular here, especially among middle-aged men. A full beard is rare, but is more common among Muslim men. In rural Kenya, long head-hair is very rare among males, a half-inch usually being the maximum length. Shaved heads are much more common, even among females, although female head-hair attitudes are widely different tribe-to-tribe. Among many Kenyan females, weaves are preferred over naturally long hair. I am told I look like "an old man" when I let my beard grow out and "a baby" when I shave my head.

Haw Arr Yoo

Things just keep happening to me.

Note for the folks at home: "Father" isn't an uncommon title to be called in rural Kenya, as a Caucasian male. For a few decades following the exit of the colonial British government in the mid-1900s, the only white people to make it out to "the bush" were (nearly) all missionaries. The habit of referring to white males as "Father" (meaning "priest"), it seems, is not one to die quickly. Religion is an integral part of the cultures of rural Kenya, but outsiders might be surprised to hear that Christianity and Islam are, almost universally, the only religions practiced. The historical religious beliefs of Kenyan peoples, even among the most traditional tribes, have long since been adjusted to fit within a Christian or Islamic system.

Guest True Story 3

Note for the folks at home: The Kanga; also known variously as the leso ("lay-so"), kikoi ("kee-koy"), or shuka ("shoo-kah"); is an extremely common garment throughout Kenya. Generally considered the "traditional" counterpart to the more "western" outfit of trousers and shirt, a kanga is a rectangular sheet worn by wrapping around the body of a woman or man. Although a kanga about the waist is often paired with a western-style shirt, kangas can be worn by themselves (in which case several are needed, wrapped around waist, torso, shoulders, etc.) Kangas have numerous uses outside of clothing: baby papoose, blanket, plyable basket, towel, wall hanging, etc., etc., etc., ad infinitum.

Editorial Cartoons

Note for the folks at home: Of all the societal problems decried by Kenyans, corruption is the most popular. The practice of "taking a little off the top", to Kenyans, is simultaneously the most abhorred of crimes as well as a recognizably common practice. It's normally taken for granted by regular citizens that those with the most power --- the politicians --- must be acquiring some wealth through unsavory means. The stain of corruption, however, isn't said to stop there. Regular news reports tell of policemen and policewomen taking bribes from drivers to overlook safety and license checks... indeed, the practice of paying "kitu kidogo" ("something small") to law authorities is common enough to be seen as an everyday occurrence. Asked about the state of corruption back in America, I reasoned that there must be a similar amount as Kenya, it's just hidden more effectively.

Kisamburu Lessons

Note for the folks at home: Kisamburu, which we've already discussed, is the "mother tongue" of the local inhabitants of Maralal, the Samburu people. The language is very unlike the more widespread Kiswahili, simply because Kisamburu and Kiswahili are from completely different linguistic roots --- they were literally brought into the country by two completely different groups. Kiswahili, as it is based partially in Bantu language roots, came to Kenya with the Bantu ethnic group through their great migration from West Africa several thousand years ago. Kisamburu, however, has Nilotic roots. The Nilotes came into Kenya from the North, through Sedan. Another Kenyan tribe of the Nilotic ethnic group is the Maasai. The Maasai people are often considered "cousins" to the Samburu people, as both groups share a great deal of cultural traditions. (They are even often confused in photographs, because the dress of the two peoples can appear so similar. Note: a Samburu man and a Maasai man.)

Vumbi!

Note for the folks at home: The Samburu district, with its semi-arid environment, generally lives up to its "desert" reputation... except during the (sudden, unexpected) rainy seasons. I suppose "unexpected" isn't fair, as it happens every year, but the rainy seasons (a long one from April-August, another short one from October-November) will undoubtedly surprise the newcomer who's accustomed himself to the hot, dry, dusty days of the dry season. Otherwise clear, glaring skies become battlegrounds for armies of raging thunderheads; the scorched, grey sand gives way to treacherous mud swamps; the normally painful direct sunshine is replaced by an equally painful barrage of ice-cold raindrops the size of grapes. Oh, and plants grow and stuff.